[Ueno: The Sacred Ground of Tonkatsu]
Ueno is home to numerous long-standing tonkatsu institutions. I recently visited Isen Honten in Ueno, famously known as the birthplace of the katsu sandwich.
Ueno is a district where people have crossed paths since the Meiji period, allowing Western-style culinary culture to flourish. The roots of tonkatsu trace back to "côtelette," a French-origin Western-style cutlet that gained popularity in Japan during the Meiji era. As these cutlets adapted to Japanese dietary culture, they evolved into uniquely Japanese "tonkatsu"—using pork, deep-frying it in abundant oil, and slicing it into easy-to-eat pieces.
Founded in 1930, Isen Honten continues to serve "tender tonkatsu that can be cut with chopsticks" in a setting that retains the atmosphere of those early days. Back when it was founded, the Shitaya area was a bustling entertainment district in Tokyo, and the katsu sandwich was devised out of consideration for the geisha, allowing them to eat without soiling their lips. The bread is specially ordered in a slightly smaller size, a dedication not only to flavor but also to ease of eating that remains carefully cherished today.
The katsu sandwich I ordered was remarkably tender and effortless to enjoy, while the pork miso soup offered a deeply comforting flavor. Next time, I definitely want to try the Sanshoku Sandwich (three-flavor sandwich), which allows you to savor three different fillings: katsu, egg, and a crab-and-cucumber salad. Sitting at the counter and watching tonkatsu being briskly and skillfully sliced right before my eyes while listening to the sound was an immense luxury—truly the best seat in the house. When I stepped outside, the filtering sunlight through the trees was breathtaking.
Ueno still harbors many other renowned tonkatsu establishments, such as Horaiya, Ueno Tonpachitei, and Ponta Honke. Enjoying tonkatsu after visiting art museums in Ueno is a wonderful way to experience Tokyo.
Isen Honten
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CUzencQ9MqbECdL76
Ginza Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/ginza.html
References
https://www.isen-honten.jp/
https://artplaza.geidai.ac.jp/sights/15649/
https://serai.jp/gourmet/1146563
