[Tokoroten]

Transparent, cool-looking, and with a smooth, refreshing texture as it glides down your throat. Do you enjoy "tokoroten," a dish that naturally becomes a favorite during the hot summer months? Tokoroten is made by boiling and dissolving a type of seaweed called "tengusa" (agar weed), pouring the liquid into a mold to cool and solidify, and then pressing the solidified block through a traditional tool called a "tokoroten-zuki" to slice it into long, thin noodle-like strips. In East Asian traditional medicine, tengusa is believed to relieve summer fatigue by clearing heat from the chest and stomach and quenching thirst. Rich in minerals, it helps replenish the nutrients lost through perspiration, making it highly logical to eat tokoroten in the summer.

Have you ever stared at the Japanese letters for "tokoroten" until the characters started to jumble up in your mind? It is actually no surprise that the word feels slightly peculiar. Historically, tokoroten was written with the characters "心太" (literally "heart-fat"), and was referred to as "kokorofuto" from the Nara period to the Heian period. Among various theories, "kokorofuto" gradually shifted to "kokorotei," eventually evolving into the modern word "tokoroten" used today.

The way tokoroten is seasoned varies significantly between the East and West of Japan. During the Edo period, tokoroten was a popular snack among the common people of Edo (modern-day Tokyo). Street vendors would push it through the slicer right on the spot to serve to customers. As soy sauce became widely available, it became common to eat tokoroten with soy sauce or vinegar soy sauce as a light snack or an accompaniment to alcoholic drinks. On the other hand, in the Kamigata region (the Kyoto and Osaka area), there was a long-standing culture of eating "kuzukiri"—noodles made from arrowroot starch (kuzuko)—with kuromitsu (black sugar syrup). Because tokoroten is similar in appearance and texture to kuzukiri, it was a natural transition to enjoy it as a dessert, topped with kuromitsu or kinako (roasted soybean flour). Furthermore, various local styles exist throughout Japan, featuring unique additions such as mustard, ginger, bonito flakes, or plum vinegar, reflecting rich regional food cultures.

While there are many ways to enjoy tokoroten, simply eating it straight out of the package is a bit of a missed opportunity. Washing it quickly with water and draining it well before adding sauces or other ingredients helps reduce the unique, sea-like aroma of the seaweed. Serving it in a pre-chilled bowl will make the experience feel even more refreshing. True summer is just around the corner. Why not treat yourself to a cooling, refreshing moment with your favorite tableware and fragrant garnishes?

Ceramic Japan's Black & White Bowl
https://www.shokunin.com/en/ceramicjapan/shirokuro.html

References
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-d-oCRI9TJ4 (Recipe)
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/78688 ("和国諸職絵尽　諸織 絵本鏡")
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/ところてん
https://kotobanomado.jp/column/1098/
https://weathernews.jp/s/topics/201908/280225/
https://www.kurashiru.com/articles/35b5c693-7f76-4fa0-86ba-b2003b622d44