[Japanese Blue and Indigo Dyeing]
The Japanese perception of color has developed uniquely, differing from the Western concept of "hue." There is a theory that in ancient times, colors did not represent the color of fixed substances but were words describing the intensity of light or the state of things. The bright clarity that bursts forth at the moment dawn breaks was called "aka" (brightness), while the darkness that envelops and hides everything was called "kuro" (darkness). The appearance of things manifesting clearly was perceived as "shiro" (manifestation), and the sky and sea that spread infinitely with ambiguous boundaries were viewed as "ao" (vagueness). In this way, colors were understood in connection with the changes in nature.
On the other hand, during the Asuka period, colors also took on institutional meanings. In the Twelve Level Cap and Rank System, colors were used as indicators of rank, functioning as social symbols. Concurrently, a perspective that values the transitions of nature was continually maintained within the Japanese sensibility. In the imperial court of the Heian period, "kasane no irome" (layered color combinations) developed to express seasonal changes through clothing color schemes. Dressing elegantly in attire appropriate for the season and occasion became refined as a part of one's education and culture. During the Heian period, rich color names unique to indigo dyeing, such as "hanada" (light indigo), "kon" (navy blue), and "ruri" (lapis lazuli), were created, and the color blue spread widely from aristocrats to samurai, and eventually to commoners. In the Meiji period, Westerners discovered the color of indigo dyeing in the streets of Japan and dubbed it "Japan Blue." Today, it is known worldwide as the blue that symbolizes Japan.
The characteristic of indigo dyeing lies in its unique dyeing technique. Since indigo, the main component, is insoluble in water, it must be fermented and reduced by the action of microorganisms to transform it into a water-soluble state. Fabric immersed in the dye solution through this process oxidizes when exposed to air, developing a blue color. Through this process of "reduction and oxidation," indigo dyeing produces deep shades through repeated dyeing.
In Japan, a dye called "sukumo" was developed. Made by fermenting and maturing the leaves of Japanese indigo (tade-ai), this dye was lightweight and suitable for preservation and transportation, becoming the foundation that supported "koya" (dyehouses) across the country during the Edo period. As a result, indigo dyeing penetrated deeply into the lives of commoners. Indigo dyeing is also said to possess practical functions such as antibacterial, insect-repellent, deodorizing, and flame-retardant properties. Due to these characteristics, indigo-dyed garments served as protective clothing for farmers, artisans, and "hikeshi" (firefighters) to safeguard their daily lives.
Furthermore, indigo dyeing has the characteristic of "color maturing." The more it is used, the more the color gradually settles, creating a unique texture. The sensibility of viewing this change as value rather than degradation shares something in common with modern indigo dyeing. Born from indigo leaves, turning into blue upon contact with air, and deepening in maturity over time, indigo dyeing can be described as a technique that embodies the Japanese perception of color—living while accepting the changes in nature.
Currently, at the Ginza Showroom, Indigo Classic's T-Shirt is on display. While having a solid thickness, it has minimal contact area with the skin, making it less likely to stick, allowing the wind to pass through the garment, and providing a dry wearing comfort even in midsummer. You can truly experience its tough practicality every time you put your sleeves through it. Since it is hung on a hanger, please take a close look at everything from the silhouette of the shirt to the length of the sleeves and hem.
Indigo Classic's T-Shirt
https://www.shokunin.com/en/indigo/
Indigo Classic's Stole
https://www.shokunin.com/en/indigo/stole.html
Indigo Classic's Handkerchief
https://www.shokunin.com/en/indigo/handkerchief.html
Showroom Information
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/
References
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/アイ_(植物)
https://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO79312250V01C14A1TBP000/
https://pixy10.org/archives/post-7433.html
https://indigoart.lp-web.net/about-indigo/
https://iroai.jp/indigo/
https://www.zaboblue.com/blog/aizome-blog03.html
https://www.gov-online.go.jp/eng/publicity/book/hlj/html/202010/202010_06_jp.html
