[Jigokuzaka and the Guest House on the Hill]

We wanted to personally experience the daily rhythm of a city that lives alongside its slopes. With that in mind during our recent business trip to Otaru, we chose "Otaru Guest House," situated high on a hill, as our accommodation for a four-night stay. This guest house, standing "atop the slope," was to fulfill our wishes 120%.

The sloped road leading to Otaru Guest House and further up to Otaru University of Commerce spans about 1.5 km in total length. It is a steeply inclined school route that was once walked during their student days by figures such as Takiji Kobayashi, the author of the novel "The Crab Cannery Ship," and Sei Ito, the poet who brought the poetry collection "The Path of Snow Light" into the world. In the past, there were few buildings in this area; during the winter, the snow-laden wind would pierce one's cheeks, and the ground was covered in deep snow, making it a harsh environment. Due to this hellish severity, the slope eventually came to be called "Jigokuzaka" (Hell Slope). The winter path, where young students determined to pursue their studies had to trudge up a steep incline with their entire field of vision dyed white, must have been incredibly painful and demanding. Seeing the students of Otaru University of Commerce still walking that exact same slope today made us feel the city's history being continuously and quietly woven through time.

Turning left just before Otaru University of Commerce, another short, steep slope appears right before your eyes. A slope, and then yet another slope. For us, having previously walked almost exclusively along the canal and its surroundings, this succession of slopes was truly a revelation. Looking to the left, the town of Otaru spreads out far below, making it clear that this location is remarkably high up. Turning the corner marked by a displayed Italian flag brings you to Otaru Guest House. It is a guest house and restaurant housed in a renovated historic Western-style building from the early Showa period. A distinctive feature is the continuous row of sash windows set between tiled pillars, and at the entrance, there is an iron fireproof door that reflects the fire prevention awareness of that era. There are four guest rooms in total: three twin rooms on the second floor of the main building, and one room in the annex "Kura," which utilizes a Taisho-period stone storehouse located at the back. All rooms are fully equipped with private bathrooms. The restaurant "Pasta Club" on the first floor serves dinners and breakfasts that highlight seasonal local ingredients. In contrast to the Western-style exterior, the back of the first floor where the restaurant is located features a traditional Japanese room complete with a tokonoma (alcove), chigaidana (staggered shelves), and a shoin (built-in desk), conveying the design details integrated into the lifestyle at the time of construction. Going up to the rooftop of the main building rewards you with a magnificent view overlooking the cityscape of Otaru and Ishikari Bay.

We stayed in the annex "Kura" behind the main building. It is one of the few remaining historic storehouses in Otaru City that leaves a Taisho-period timber-framed stone storehouse almost completely untouched, utilizing Sapporo soft stone, which is considered rare today. As lovers of architecture, we simply had to stay here. Opening the heavy door reveals the essence of Taisho Romanticism alive in every detail, such as a charming cabriole-legged table and chairs upholstered in red felt. At the top of the stairs, the second floor features white plaster walls and inviting, comfortable beds lined up together. Perhaps because there are no streetlights or other ambient lights nearby, turning off the lamps plunges the room into complete darkness and perfect silence. After sleeping soundly in such an environment, we woke up every morning to the morning light filtering through the window and the sound of bush warblers singing nearby—a truly ideal and blissful way to wake up that moved us each day.

No matter where you travel in the world, tourist attractions have reasons for drawing travelers' hearts, and it goes without saying how wonderful those places can be. However, every city and destination possesses a "true daily life" that can never be encountered simply by following a trail of glittering tourist spots. This time, by walking up the slope step by step while catching our breath, we came to understand the real elevations of this city, looked down upon roads that run in a straight line toward the sea, felt the pleasant breeze on the hill, and experienced life atop the slope by sleeping wrapped in the silence of the night. It was a continuous series of new discoveries for us. The next time we visit somewhere, we want to walk through places that exist as an extension of daily life, just like the "slopes" of Otaru. It was a thoroughly meaningful stay that made us feel that way. Experiencing the daily life of a city with a sincere heart can serve as a small catalyst that changes how we travel, and how we view travel itself.

Otaru Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/otaru.html
Otaru Guest House
https://ataruguest.web.fc2.com/

References
https://www.city.otaru.lg.jp/docs/2020101501082/
https://otaru.gr.jp/hotel/otaru_guesthouse
https://www.visit-hokkaido.jp/spot/detail_10192.html