[Shirakawa-go]
The famous opening line, "The train came out of the long tunnel into the snow country," flashed through my mind as a brilliant, almost blinding landscape of pure white snow unfolded before my eyes. I had set out from Meitetsu Nagoya Station on a highway bus bound for Shirakawa-go in Gifu Prefecture. Because of the early morning departure, I fell into a light doze soon after boarding. I woke up just as we entered a tunnel on the expressway, and the moment we emerged, it was a world of silver. For someone from Kyushu who has rarely experienced snow, this sight alone filled my heart with anticipation.
The Ogimachi Gassho-zukuri Village in Shirakawa-go is an agricultural mountain community surrounded by peaks in Shirakawa Village, Ono District, Gifu Prefecture. It is one of Japan's heaviest snowfall areas, covered in snow for about four to five months each winter. In 1995, along with Gokayama in Toyama Prefecture, it was registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site as the "Historic Villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokayama." The characteristic steeply pitched roofs of the gassho-zukuri houses were designed not only to withstand the weight of the snow but also to facilitate sericulture (silkworm raising) in the attic spaces—a necessity for a region where flat land was scarce and farming alone was insufficient for a livelihood. In 1971, the village of Ogimachi established three principles: "Do not sell, do not rent, and do not destroy," working together to protect the scenery of Shirakawa-go. The re-thatching of the roofs is carried out by the entire village under the spirit of Yui, a system of mutual aid where residents support one another. Witnessing the structure of a gassho-zukuri house, where thick, solid timbers are meticulously and powerfully lashed together, I felt the profound sentiments of the people who have passed down a way of life in this harsh environment through cooperation. At the same time, I felt that protecting this landscape is not the responsibility of the residents alone, but rests equally upon us who visit.
Although a short distance from the center of the village, the Gassho-zukuri Minkaen (Open-air Museum) is a highly recommended spot where you can observe these houses closely in a serene setting. This outdoor museum features relocated houses that were actually lived in, preserving 25 buildings, including nine designated as Important Cultural Properties of Gifu Prefecture. I only passed a few people within the grounds; most were solo travelers with cameras, quietly taking in the sights. The sunlight reflecting off the untouched, pristine snow was so dazzling that I was moved to wordless emotion, realizing that such a beautiful winter landscape existed in Japan.
Stepping into a gassho-zukuri house that serves as a rest area to warm up with some zenzai (sweet red bean soup), I was surprised to find an irori (sunken hearth) in use. Drawn to the crackling fire in the winter chill, I took a seat by the hearth. Before long, a French woman traveling alone joined me, and a natural conversation began about our travels and what had impressed us most. I imagined the lives of the people in this snow country—how, despite the harsh cold and deep snow outside, the warmth of the irori and the presence of family must have filled the home. What struck me most about my first experience with an irori was the smoke. The interior was smokier than I had imagined, and due to the structure of the gassho-zukuri, the smoke rose higher and higher. Climbing the ladder-like stairs to the third floor, the smoke stung my eyes. I realized then that this very smoke provided insect-repelling and preservative effects for the attic timbers and thatch, allowing the gassho-zukuri to last for generations. There is a world of difference between knowing something through imagination or knowledge and experiencing it firsthand. Along with the scent of smoke that clung firmly to my clothes and hair, the beautiful, original landscape of Japan created by the gassho-zukuri and the snow became an unforgettable memory etched in my heart.
Gassho-zukuri is the culmination of human wisdom and ingenuity, utilizing the blessings of a harsh yet rich nature to adapt to a severe environment. Many of the crafts we carry at Shokunin.com are also made from natural materials such as plants, stone, and earth, combined with the local climate and the skill and experience of artisans. They are all expressions of the wisdom and ingenuity of Japanese life. Encountering these products firsthand at our showroom might lead to an unexpected discovery. We look forward to seeing you at our showroom to help make your experience a wonderful one.
Showroom Information
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/
Gassho-zukuri Minkaen
https://maps.app.goo.gl/coeWzNUmJ1iCjfqU7
References
https://www.kankou-gifu.jp/article/detail_11.html
https://shirakawa-go.gr.jp/highlights/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Historic_Villages_of_Shirakawa-g%C5%8D_and_Gokayama
https://www.shirakawago-minkaen.jp/facilities
