[The Story of Cod]
Cod is a fish that is deeply familiar to us, yet often in invisible forms. How many people are truly conscious of eating cod in their daily lives? It appears as processed seafood like chikuwa, hanpen, and kamaboko; as dried baradara; in white fish fillets; and as cod roe (tarako) or milt (shirako). Many of these products are widely used in our diet, using cod as a primary ingredient without its name being displayed at the forefront. Hokkaido accounts for a large portion of the domestic catch, and cod, raised in the cold northern seas, is an indispensable presence on the winter dining table. Generally, the term “cod” in Japan refers to Pacific Cod (Madara), which has a distinctive barbel under its chin. Used in dishes like “tara-chiri” (cod hot pot), simmered dishes, and salt-grilled fillets, it has appeared in records since the Heian period and was considered a winter delicacy during the Edo period. On the other hand, the barbel-less Alaska Pollack is caught in large quantities in Hokkaido and Tohoku, and since the Meiji era, it has been widely utilized as a raw material for fish paste and preserved foods. In the Showa era, spicy cod roe (karashi mentaiko) became a specialty of Fukuoka and spread nationwide. It is also used in fish burgers, and its stomach is known as the ingredient for the Korean salted seafood “chanja.”
While cod is essential to the Japanese table, it was also a vital fish in medieval Europe. Atlantic Cod, which inhabits the North Atlantic, was called the “beef of the sea” at the time and is said to have been caught in massive quantities as a crucial protein source comparable to beef. The cod fishery and its trade were vital industries that supported the economic growth of Northern Europe and were deeply intertwined with religion, food culture, and the economy. In the Catholic world, religious traditions of Lent and fasting days meant that meat consumption was avoided for over 100 days a year, including every Friday, to commemorate the Passion and fasting of Jesus Christ. During these periods, while meat, dairy, and eggs were restricted, fish was allowed as an exception. This custom fostered the development of fish-eating culture in Europe and led to advancements in fishing and preservation techniques. In particular, dried and salted fish that could be stored for long periods became essential foodstuffs.
Why did cod specifically become so important among many fish? Cod was widely distributed in the North Atlantic and could be caught in great numbers. Additionally, being a lean white fish, it was well-suited for preservation through salting and drying. The cold, dry climate of Northern Europe was also ideal for air-drying, allowing it to circulate widely as a food source that could be stored for long durations. Around the 10th to 12th centuries, the mass production of salt progressed, and the production of preserved cod known as “bacalao” spread. By splitting the fish, removing the innards, and salting it, long-term storage and long-distance transport became possible. From the 13th century onwards, merchants of the Hanseatic League—a trade network of merchants and cities centered in Northern Germany—exported cod to European countries via the Baltic and North Seas, and the market expanded, supported by the demand on fasting days. Furthermore, during the Age of Discovery, it spread around the world as provisions for Portuguese and Spanish ships, and the cod industry flourished in New England, North America. In this way, preserved cod became a crucial presence supporting the food supply of medieval Europe.
Along the National Route 8 near the Jade Coast in Toyama Prefecture, where raw jade stones wash ashore, lies “Tara-jiru Kaido” (Cod Soup Road), lined with shops serving cod soup. During the 1950s and 60s, an era when bountiful cod catches supported fishing villages, it is said that when fishermen returned around noon, they would gather driftwood on the beach, boil a large pot, and prepare freshly caught cod with miso to make “tara-jiru,” which was shared among families and everyone involved in the fishing. Born from this scene rooted in Asahi Town, Toyama Prefecture, cod soup continues to be passed down as a unique food culture of this region. Both the sea and human lives change little by little over long periods of time. Even so, when we reflect on the history of cod, a fish that has stayed close to our tables, we wish to remain grateful for the blessings of the sea.
Cod Hot Pot (Article)
https://en.shokunin.com/archives/53487504.html
Maeuntang (Article)
https://en.shokunin.com/archives/51777509.html
References
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cod
https://www.olive-hitomawashi.com/column/2018/12/post-3476.html
https://www.taberare.com/article/blog/post-14009
https://www.mentaiko-ftc.org/mentaiko-story/
https://www.shiotokurashi.com/world/europe/43792
https://tenki.jp/suppl/okuyuki/2017/03/11/20561.html
https://nazology.kusuguru.co.jp/archives/180604
https://www.maff.go.jp/j/keikaku/syokubunka/k_ryouri/search_menu/menu/37_2_toyama.html
