[The Chill of Sanjusangen-do and the Steam of Uzofusui]

In early February, during a trip to Kyoto on a cold day, I experienced both the stillness felt throughout the body and a sense of warm, tranquil time. I visited “Sanjusangen-do” in Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto. Its official name is Rengeo-in, but it has long been known as Sanjusangen-do because of the 33 spaces between the pillars along the hall, which measures approximately 120 meters in length. This long wooden structure, boasting a scale unparalleled in Japan, is designated as a National Treasure. The space is overwhelming, as the principal image, the seated statue of the Thousand-armed Kannon, the one thousand standing statues of the Thousand-armed Kannon, the Twenty-eight Attendants, and the statues of the Wind and Thunder Gods—all of which are National Treasures—are gathered in this single space. A “National Treasure” is a title given under Japan's cultural property protection system to buildings, Buddhist statues, paintings, and crafts that are considered particularly important for understanding Japan's history and culture, possessing value that must be passed down to future generations.

I had heard that Kyoto in winter is so cold it is described as “Kyoto's sokobie” (deep chill), and the moment I entered the main hall, I felt a clear, cold air that was even sharper than outside. The chill that the wooden structure had accumulated over many years and the quiet expressions of the Thousand-armed Kannon statues seemed to slowly resonate within me. The view down the corridor stretching far into the distance is magnificent, and the sight of the Buddhist statues lined up on the opposite side is breathtaking. To see the statues as closely as possible, I approached the boundary of the “Naishin” (the inner sanctuary), the most sacred space where the principal image is enshrined, and noticed my breath turning white. However, that slight difference in air created by the temperature seemed to separate the world of the Buddha from the world where we exist. It was a mysterious and solemn experience, much like stepping into a sanctuary.

With my body thoroughly chilled, I headed to “Warajiya,” a long-established eel restaurant near Sanjusangen-do. In contrast to the cold outside, the air inside was softened by the faint aroma of dashi. With a history of over 400 years, it is said to have been named “Warajiya” because the Taiko Toyotomi Hideyoshi would take off his “waraji” (straw sandals) to rest here whenever he came to inspect the construction of the Great Buddha Hall at Hoko-ji Temple. Their specialty is an eel rice porridge called “Uzofusui.” It is characterized by a gentle, Kyoto-style flavor made with grilled eel, shiitake mushrooms, burdock root, carrots, mitsuba, eggs, and mochi, all simmered in a dashi of kelp and bonito. Just watching the fragrant steam rising from the clay pot brought to the tatami room and the porridge bubbling for a while relaxed both my mind and body. One bite sent warmth circulating all the way to my chilled fingertips. A tea room named “Ichiro-an” still remains within the restaurant, known as the room that appears in the great writer Junichiro Tanizaki's “In Praise of Shadows.” In the work, he describes the scene of eating rice porridge in the dark, relying only on the light of an “andon” (lantern), and the beauty of those shadows is still passed down today.

I believe winter in Kyoto has the charm of “history felt through the body.” It is an experience where you understand the depth of time accumulated by architecture and faith not just through your eyes, but through senses such as the cold, the scent, and the silence. It feels like a culture received by letting your own sensations reflect on the sensibilities of that era. This severe cold is also the “yokan” (lingering cold) that precedes the arrival of spring. It would be wonderful to enjoy this moment while looking forward to the spring ahead.

Sanjusangen-do
https://www.sanjusangendo.jp/
Warajiya
https://uzofusui-warajiya.kyoto/
Sanjo Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/sanjo.html