[Sukeroku Sushi]
Sukeroku sushi is a set combining inari sushi and maki sushi. While this familiar assortment is commonly found in supermarkets, convenience stores, festivals, and special events, its roots run deep in the sophisticated culture of the Edo period.
The name originates from the kabuki play “Sukeroku Yukari no Edozakura,” one of the Kabuki Juhachiban (Eighteen Classic Kabuki Plays). The protagonist Sukeroku had a courtesan lover named Agemaki. The “age” (揚げ) in her name was likened to the fried tofu skin of inari sushi, while “maki” (巻) represented the rolled sushi. Named after this immensely popular play, it became known as sukeroku sushi.
Originally, one of the great pleasures of attending plays in the Edo period was enjoying boxed sushi during the intermission. Among these, sukeroku sushi, with its clever puns and playful spirit inspired by the heroine, became an explosive hit at the theaters. Without elaborate decoration, its clean, orderly appearance, its functionality allowing for easy eating, and its efficient composition embodied the very essence of “iki” (refined taste), something deeply valued by the Edoites.
Inari sushi itself existed from the late Edo period, spreading among commoners as a “fast food” that could be eaten easily without chopsticks in entertainment districts lined with sideshows. The “Tenpo Reforms” and their prohibition on luxury accelerated its popularity. As expensive sushi shops were forced to close, affordable and satisfying inari sushi captured people's hearts. Initially sold as long, cut pieces, it gradually evolved into its current form, developing diverse variations adapted to regional customs.
Even today, clear differences in shape and seasoning exist between Eastern and Western Japan. In Eastern Japan, centered around the Kanto region, the rectangular “bale-shaped” form—resembling rice bales symbolizing abundant harvests—is predominant. In contrast, in Western Japan, the triangular shape, said to resemble Mount Inari at Fushimi Inari Taisha or a fox's ears, is common. Seasoning also differs: Kanto features a simple composition of sweet and savory fried tofu simmered in dark soy sauce paired with plain vinegared rice, while Kansai is characterized by refined simmering in light soy sauce and filling with mixed rice containing various ingredients.
The other element, “rolled sushi,” also has regional styles. In Eastern Japan, it's common to pair it with “kanpyo rolls,” a representative Edo-style sushi roll. In Western Japan, however, it's often served with the generously filled “thick rolls.” Particularly popular in Kansai, the thick rolls are cherished not only as part of sukeroku sushi but also as a standalone star dish. Recently, we've seen forms breaking from tradition, such as combining both thin rolls and thick rolls with inari sushi.
Sukeroku sushi, which flexibly incorporates preferences across eras and regions, deeply reflects each area's food culture. Its form, blending the playful spirit born from kabuki with local traditions, represents the most accessible “living food culture” for us. Taking another look at the “fried” and “rolled” items sharing the same box, and the regional variations, might make your usual sukeroku sushi feel just a little more special.
Kiya's Sushimaki
https://www.shokunin.com/en/kiya/sushimaki.html
Matsuya Shikkiten's Shiraki-Nuri Lunch Box
https://www.shokunin.com/en/matsuya/
Otera Kohachiro Shoten's Kanamari M
https://www.shokunin.com/en/otera/kanamari.html
References
https://weathernews.jp/s/topics/202102/080255/
https://studiob.abc-cooking.co.jp/posts/_05NybJq
https://ok-food.co.jp/learning/
https://www.rideonexpresshd.co.jp/news/2020/12/-5.html
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%8A%A9%E5%85%AD
