[The Former Hakodate Ward Public Hall and Motomachi]
Perched on a hill overlooking the port of Hakodate City, Hokkaido, stands a Western-style building adorned with beautiful blue-gray and yellow decorations. This is the Former Hakodate Ward Public Hall, designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan. Built in 1910 (Meiji 43), this wooden Western-style building had been closed since 2018 for preservation and repair work, but it regained its vibrant appearance in 2021. Eager to see its reborn form, I visited Hakodate at the start of winter several years ago.
The hill where the Former Hakodate Ward Public Hall stands is located in the Motomachi area, halfway up Mount Hakodate, where historic buildings line the streets. Hakodate City opened as one of Japan's first foreign trade ports in 1859 (Ansei 6), alongside Yokohama and Nagasaki, following the signing of the Treaty of Amity and Commerce. After opening, foreign cultures flowed into this area, forming Motomachi's distinctive streetscape, lined with buildings that incorporated overseas styles and churches of various denominations. Each has undergone repeated preservation and restoration, conveying its historic appearance to the present day.
Among them, the former Hakodate Ward Public Hall stands out with its elegant presence. Built in 1910 (Meiji 43) as a replacement for the town hall destroyed in the devastating fire of 1907 (Meiji 40), it was funded by donations from wealthy merchant Soma Teppei and the citizens. This magnificent, symmetrical Colonial-style building reflects both the high level of architectural skill of the time and the indomitable spirit of those striving for a strong recovery from the great fire.
Inside, numerous valuable furnishings blending Japanese and Western elements are displayed, offering a glimpse into the atmosphere of the time. The Western-style furniture was crafted by Hakodate's furniture craftsmen after studying designs at Tokyo furniture shops. The fireplace features rare British Victorian tiles, highly valued at the time. The second floor houses an impressively spacious main hall with a suspended ceiling, eliminating obstructing pillars. The plaster ceiling is carved with beautiful flowers, while the ceiling's edge features wood carvings of plants and ribbons. Every detail reveals the craftsmen's skill and aesthetic sensibility, poured into the work without compromise. Furthermore, the open view of Hakodate Port visible from the balcony connected to the grand hall is spectacular.
Surrounding the Former Hakodate Ward Public Hall are scattered churches like the Catholic Motomachi Church, the Hakodate Orthodox Church, and the Hakodate St. John's Church. The traces of the people who cherished and preserved their faith and way of life in this foreign land remain vividly present today.
The Motomachi area is not only an attractive tourist destination but also a residential neighborhood with public facilities like schools. To preserve the carefully maintained streetscape and the peaceful daily lives of its citizens, each of us visiting should approach this town with respect and restraint. This winter, why not embark on a journey to Hakodate, rich in foreign charm, to experience the history of its streets?
Former Hakodate Ward Public Hall
https://maps.app.goo.gl/GV7X1qTPdxEgzJJ1A
Otaru Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/otaru.html
References
https://hakodate-kokaido.jp/2021/04/20/history/
https://www.hkd.mlit.go.jp/hk/tikkou/m8lgt80000000bz3.html
https://www.hakobura.jp/features/98
