[Kinosaki Onsen]
Kinosaki Onsen, one of Kansai's premier hot spring towns, lies on Hyogo Prefecture's Sea of Japan coast. I visited during the season when this year's crab fishing season opened in early November, drawing people from across the country seeking crab.
After about two and a half hours on the limited express train from Kyoto, I was greeted by a classic hot spring town: crisp, clear air, mountains beginning to turn crimson with autumn leaves, rows of wooden buildings, and beautiful willow trees lining the river. Kinosaki Onsen, which celebrated its 1300th anniversary in 2020 since its discovery by the monk Dochi, owes much of its charm to its culture of “visiting the public baths” (soto-yu meguri). Baths within inns are called “uchi-yu” (inner baths), while communal bathhouses outside are “soto-yu” (outdoor baths). Guests can freely use all seven soto-yu bathhouses scattered throughout the town. Among Japan's many hot spring resorts, few offer such a concentration of large bathhouses, each with its own distinct character, all so conveniently close together.
The lights and streetscape from afternoon into night, people strolling leisurely after dusk, dressed in yukata provided by their inns. Amidst this atmosphere overflowing with charm, I savored the joy of hot spring hopping, visiting outer baths like the famed Ichi-no-yu, hailed as the best in the land, and Gosho-no-yu, known for its liberating open-air baths. After dinner, around 8 or 9 PM, the hot spring town comes even more alive. You can stroll through the dreamlike night streets, enjoying soft-serve ice cream after bathing, toasting with local craft beer, or browsing souvenirs.
Kinosaki Onsen, with its long history, has been celebrated in poetry since the Heian period and is also a hot spring resort beloved by many literary figures, including the great writer Shiga Naoya. Shiga's work “At Kinosaki” (published in 1917), which recounts events during his stay, remains one of his most representative short stories, still widely read today. The Kinosaki Literary Museum, opened in 1996, underwent a major renovation in 2016, its 20th anniversary. Inside its modern building, you can learn about the connections between the town and people of Kinosaki and the writers of the Shirakaba School, the evolution of bathing tickets, and the steps taken in recovery from the Great Hokutan Earthquake. It's a spot well worth visiting.
When it comes to winter in Kinosaki Onsen, crab is an absolute must. In the San'in region, male snow crabs are called “Matsuba-gani,” while females are known as “Koppe-gani” or “Seko-gani.” The boiled crab served at the ryokan was incredibly fresh, allowing us to savor its refined, natural umami flavor. While the hot spring town offers countless restaurants serving crab dishes, if you visit Kinosaki Onsen during this season, you absolutely must try the tomato cream pasta with Seko-gami at “OFF KINOSAKI,” located along a small stream off the main street. It was pure heaven in my mouth.
That area features several new shops. Just a few doors down from OFF is “PARADI,” a shop selling high-quality baked goods and pastries. Everything, from the pumpkin quiche to the chestnut pie, is exquisite—perfect for stocking up on snacks for the express train ride home. Kinosaki is famous not just for crab, but also for Tajima beef. For lunch, the meaty Tajima beef burger at “Kinosaki Burger” right in front of Kinosaki Onsen Station is also hard to resist.
Kinosaki Onsen offered plenty to see, enjoy, and eat. The crowds were just right, and I thoroughly enjoyed myself—so much so that lately, I've been dreaming of visiting again next winter...
Kinosaki Onsen
https://maps.app.goo.gl/NtDRiZ44A9r73Y2u7
Kinosaki Literary Museum
https://maps.app.goo.gl/2qtm9hSeYx8M8Umt9
OFF KINOSAKI
https://maps.app.goo.gl/xbWrtWHbvBXEAWyT6
PARADI
https://maps.app.goo.gl/w67tdTwvj8H3umNc6
Kinosaki Burger
https://maps.app.goo.gl/NtDRiZ44A9r73Y2u7
References
https://kinosaki-spa.gr.jp/
https://kinobun.jp/
https://toyooka-tourism.com/kinosaki/
