[Kamaboko]
Kamaboko is a type of fish paste product made by shaping and heating ground fish meat, with origins dating back to the Heian period. The earliest extant document mentioning kamaboko is the ancient text Ruijū Zōyōshō. This book records the celebratory feast held by Fujiwara no Tadamichi, the Kampaku and Udaijin, when he moved to a new residence in 1115. Among the dishes served were skewered pieces of kamaboko. Early kamaboko was made by wrapping minced white fish (primarily freshwater catfish) around bamboo sticks and grilling it. Its shape resembled the spikes of the cattail plant (gama), hence the name “kamaboko.” This earliest form of kamaboko is the prototype of today's chikuwa.
Over time, kamaboko's form evolved. Removing the bamboo created “chikuwa,” and later, “ita kamaboko” appeared—shaped paste molded onto boards. Thus, the original skewered kamaboko became known as “chikuwa kamaboko,” later shortened to “chikuwa.” Meanwhile, the board-molded type became established as “kamaboko.” Since white fish was expensive, kamaboko was treasured from ancient times as a delicacy and gift item. Advances in manufacturing techniques led to the appearance of board-molded kamaboko by the late Muromachi period, and steamed kamaboko emerged and developed during the Edo period. Today, kamaboko is classified by production method into categories such as “steamed kamaboko types (including board-molded kamaboko)”, “baked kamaboko types (including sasa kamaboko)”, “boiled kamaboko types (including hanpen and naruto)”, and “fried kamaboko types (including satsuma-age)”.
Kamaboko has regional characteristics, with unique products developed in various areas. One representative example is the Miyagi specialty “sasa kamaboko” (commonly known as Sasakama). Sasa kamaboko is a type of baked kamaboko. Its origin is unclear, but one theory suggests it began during the Meiji period when large catches of flounder were landed in the Sendai Bay area. To preserve the fish, the minced flesh was flattened, skewered, and grilled. After the war, the name “sasa kamaboko” gained popularity because its flat shape resembled bamboo leaves and because bamboo is depicted in the family crest of the Date clan, the feudal lords of Sendai, known as “Bamboo with Sparrows.” The name “Sendai Specialty Sasa Kamaboko” was first used by Hideo Abe, founder of Abe Kamaboko-ten, established in 1935 (Showa 10). Hideo Abe sought to revitalize the region by establishing “sasa kamaboko” as a Miyagi specialty. Collaborating with Okuda Ironworks and Wako Electric, he developed an automated bamboo-leaf grilling machine powered by electricity. Furthermore, he shared the design blueprints with other companies in the industry, dedicating himself to the development of both the entire sector and the local Sendai area.
Recently, I experienced the “hand-grilled sasakamaboko” activity at the main store of Abe Kamaboko-ten, where you grill and eat the sasakamaboko yourself. Placing the sasakamaboko on the grill station inside the store and grilling both sides until they turn a nice golden brown, a soft, savory fish aroma wafted up. The texture was hot and springy, and the umami flavor spread throughout my mouth. The aftertaste and aroma were distinctly natural and flavorful. I intended to savor the carefully grilled sasakamaboko slowly, but its deliciousness made me finish it in no time.
This grilled sasakamaboko is also easy to enjoy at home. Using Tsujiwa Kanaami's Tetsuki Yakiami lets you experience the freshly grilled aroma just as it is. Adding wasabi soy sauce offers a different flavor profile. Please take your time savoring each piece as its savory aroma and umami spread throughout your mouth.
Tsujiwa Kanaami's Tetsuki Yakiami
https://www.shokunin.com/en/tsujiwa/tetsuki.html
References
https://www.ichimasa.co.jp/enjoy/food_kamaboko.asp
https://www.kibun.co.jp/knowledge/neri/history/kigen/index.html
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E8%92%B2%E9%89%BE
https://www.abekama.co.jp/history
https://webarchives.tnm.jp/imgsearch/show/C0022066
https://archive.library.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/da/detail?tilcod=0000000003-00020436
