[Date Masamune and Sendai Miso: The Wisdom of a Warlord and the Foundation of Food Culture]
Date Masamune, a Sengoku-period warlord also known as the “One-Eyed Dragon of Oshu.” Having experienced the importance of securing provisions during the era of war and transitioning to feudal domain governance, he deeply understood the significance of food culture and agriculture. Upon establishing the Sendai Domain, he focused his efforts on promoting agriculture and industry as the foundation for prosperous domain management.
During the Warring States period, military provisions (field rations) were crucial to determining the outcome of battles. Among these, “rice” and “miso” were indispensable staples for soldiers. Miso was carried onto the battlefield through various ingenious methods. The most common practice seemed to be drying or roasting it into miso balls, wrapping them with other food items in bamboo leaves or hand towels, and hanging them from the waist. Additionally, a method akin to modern instant miso soup was devised: dried vegetables were simmered in salty miso until thickened, then dried solid. This could be carried and simply boiled in camp to make miso soup. The miso brought by Date Masamune during Toyotomi Hideyoshi's Korean campaign was less prone to spoilage than miso from other domains, and its high quality became renowned among the daimyo.
After establishing the Sendai domain, Masamune built a miso factory called the “Goensogura” in the castle town in 1626 (Kan'ei 3) to achieve self-sufficiency in military miso. This is considered Japan's first miso factory, marking the large-scale start of Sendai miso brewing. The Sendai domain's Edo residence housed 3,000 permanent samurai soldiers. All their food supplies were transported from Sendai, with miso delivered from the castle's Goensogura. Eventually, a miso warehouse was built at the Oi Sub-Residence, where miso production began using soybeans and rice shipped from Sendai. Edo commoners heard rumors about the deliciousness of “Sendai Miso” through neighborhood gossip and began obtaining it through connections. Its reputation grew so strong that the sub-residence became known as the “Miso Residence.” During the reign of the second feudal lord, Tadamune, surplus miso was sometimes sold off to the public.
After constructing the Imperial Salt and Miso Storehouse, Lord Masamune appointed Makabeya Komaki Ichibei as the official miso supplier to improve Sendai miso's quality. Led by Makabeya Furuki Ichibei, miso brewers organized a guild called the “Miso Guild” and compiled its regulations into the “Miso Guild Rules and Regulations Record Book.” This code established strict standards for Sendai miso, covering everything from ingredient ratios and production methods to pricing. This led to the creation of high-quality Sendai miso that remained stable throughout the seasons. It gradually spread from the common people to the entire nation. Sendai miso is a rice miso using rice koji, characterized by a high soybean ratio, a deep golden yellow color with a glossy sheen, and a savory, aromatic flavor with rounded saltiness—a distinctive dry red miso. Protected by the domain throughout the Edo period, this traditional production method combined with Miyagi's climate cultivates a clean taste that preserves the umami of soybeans.
Masamune's interests extended beyond developing military provisions. After the Warring States period ended, he turned his attention to the pursuit of fine cuisine, immersing himself in culinary research. The “Collection of Lord Masamune's Sayings” records his culinary philosophy: “A feast is serving seasonal ingredients unobtrusively, prepared and served by the host himself.” He was also meticulous about health management, adjusting his wake-up time flexibly to avoid forced early rising and prioritizing recovery from fatigue, embodying both thoroughness and adaptability. Many dishes are also said to have been conceived by Masamune. For instance, the unique sweet “zunda,” made by grinding edamame beans, is believed to originate from grinding beans with a sword during military campaigns. One theory suggests the name “zunda” evolved from ‘jindachi’ (war sword). Similarly, “shiso maki” (shiso-wrapped rolls) is said to have begun as a dish created for visitors to hot springs during Masamune's era.
The food culture Masamune established remains deeply rooted in Sendai today. The traditional techniques and strict quality standards he established are carried on in modern Sendai miso production, with the fundamentals—such as the blend and manufacturing methods—unchanged. Sendai miso is a nutrient-rich food containing high-quality protein, with amino acids and vitamins generated during fermentation. It is particularly known for its high content of melanoidin, characteristic of red miso, and its strong antioxidant properties.
This tradition of Sendai miso began with Masamune's military wisdom and industrial promotion efforts. It later mergd with a passion for gourmet cuisine and health consciousness, becoming the foundation that shaped modern Sendai's food culture. The wisdom and spirit left behind by Date Masamune live on today in the City of Trees, Sendai, along with the aroma of miso.
Ichiyougama's Mortar 19cm
https://www.shokunin.com/en/ichiyou/suribachi.html
Okubo House Mokkosha's Chestnut Rice Scoop
https://www.shokunin.com/en/okubo/shamoji.html
Sendai Castle Ruins
https://maps.app.goo.gl/wTDY5fNXucApvH1y5
Zuihoden Mausoleum
https://maps.app.goo.gl/5Bq249LuaXogL6Mk6
References
https://www.maff.go.jp/j/keikaku/syokubunka/traditional-foods/menu/sendaimiso.html
https://www.maff.go.jp/j/keikaku/syokubunka/k_ryouri/search_menu/menu/shiso_maki_miyagi.html
https://www.sentabi.jp/delicious/
http://www.sendaimiso.co.jp/power/
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E4%BC%8A%E9%81%94%E6%94%BF%E5%AE%97
http://www.omiso.or.jp/misohistory/misohistory.html
