[Sanma]

It's the season when “sanma” (Pacific saury), a quintessential symbol of autumn in Japan, hits the market. This year, approximately 5,000 tons were landed nationwide—roughly double the amount compared to the same period last year, meaning plenty of sanma is available. It's delightful to think sanma will be a familiar presence on autumn dining tables.

There are several theories about the origin of the name “sanma.” One theory suggests it derives from “samana” (狭真魚), meaning “narrow fish,” while another proposes it comes from “sawanma” (沢魚), referring to their habit of swimming in schools. Historically, it was written as “狭真魚,” “サイラ” (saira), or ‘青串魚’ (sanma). Natsume Sōseki even wrote it as “三馬” (sanma) in his work I Am a Cat.

The characters “秋刀魚” (sanma), now widely used, emerged to represent its peak season in autumn and its slender, sword-like form. They gained popularity through Satō Haruo's “Song of the Sanma” during the Taisho era. This poem is known for overlaying the melancholy and sentiment of the human heart onto the everyday presence of sanma on the dinner table.

Another famous story involving sanma is the classic rakugo tale “Meguro no Sanma.” When a feudal lord went on a distant excursion to Meguro, he was drawn by the savory aroma of sanma being grilled by commoners and tried it for the first time, being deeply impressed by its deliciousness. However, later, when served a boneless, fat-trimmed sanma at his mansion, he was unsatisfied and declared, “Sanma is only good in Meguro.” This story satirizes the lord's naivety by contrasting the simple, delicious sanma of the common folk with the refined, formal cuisine of the city. Inspired by this, the “Meguro Sanma Festival” is held annually in Meguro, Tokyo, where charcoal-grilled sanma is served. This year's festival is scheduled for Sunday, October 12th.

Sanma isn't just delicious; it's rich in unsaturated fatty acids like DHA and EPA, characteristic of bluefish. These help prevent arteriosclerosis and improve blood flow. It also contains vitamin D, making it effective for maintaining bone health. While grilled sanma is a classic way to enjoy it, sanma rice is also highly recommended. Season the sanma with salt, grill it, remove the innards, then cook it with rice and seasonings. Once cooked, remove the bones and head, flake the fish, and mix it into the rice to complete. Cooking it in an earthenware pot also yields delicious, aromatic rice crust. After enjoying the rice, try dashi chazuke: pour dashi broth made with kelp over the sanma bones. Season with sake, light soy sauce, and salt, then top with condiments like myoga ginger, chopped nori seaweed, and wasabi for a refreshing, satisfying finish.

Sanma has long been cherished as “the commoner's taste of autumn.” Why not enjoy this seasonal autumn blessing, fresh sanma, at home this year?

Matsuyama Tokojo's Dobai Hanten Donabe
https://www.shokunin.com/en/matsuyama/donabe.html

References
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/サンマ
https://www.aozora.gr.jp/cards/001763/files/56872_58817.html
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/目黒のさんま
https://www.city.meguro.tokyo.jp/bunka/bunkasports/kankou/kuminmatsuri-sun.html
https://news.yahoo.co.jp/articles/e47152b323d4ed10eb9b052b162db29ed86433e0
https://kurashikosaeru.com/blogs/blog/20230927-ha-shun-sanma