[The Artisans of Aubusson]

Mainland France currently has 96 departments, grouped into regions of 2 to 7 departments each. This time, we visited the small village of Aubusson in the Creuse department of Nouvelle-Aquitaine.

Located in central France, this compact town has a population of about 3,000 and is nestled among mountains through which the Beauze and Creuse rivers flow. Aubusson, with its rows of picturesque stone houses straight out of a postcard, is renowned for tapestry weaving dating back to around the 15th century. This craft grew into a vital industry for Aubusson, even leading to the establishment of a royal workshop. It holds the IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) designation, granted only to works woven in this region. In 2009, its traditional techniques were inscribed on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Even today, artisans across various trades involved in tapestry—dyeing, weaving workshops, cartouchiers (craftsmen who create patterns for looms from original designs), restorers—carry on this tradition.

My first stop was Château de Villemonteix. Seeing the tapestries adorning the cold, stark stone walls for warmth made it clear why stone castles needed tapestries. The famous “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestries were also discovered in a nearby castle. The town boasts numerous ateliers and galleries. Witnessing the actual weaving process firsthand, I was astonished by the intricate detail and sheer volume of work involved. Before weaving begins, the design is finalized. A broad spectrum of color variations is defined, and to faithfully reproduce light and shadow from the original artwork, artisans vary thread thickness and materials (wool, silk, linen, etc.) to achieve lustrous and translucent effects. Sometimes, combining different colored threads is used to convey softness in the composition. This demands an artisan's skill that cannot be explained by textbook methods alone.

France has the term “savoir-faire.” It seems to be a concept particularly valued in the traditional craftsmanship of high-end brands. This word, formed by combining “savoir” (to know) and “faire” (to make), is often translated literally as “know-how.” Yet, that feels far too simple and bland. It carries a much deeper meaning, encompassing unique techniques, sensibilities, and creativity cultivated over centuries—closer to what Japan calls “master craftsman's skill” or “artisan's craftsmanship.” It likely demands not just method but also “refined taste” and “ingenuity.”

Another surprising fact: during production, weavers only ever see the reverse side of their work! The front remains hidden until completion. Imagine spending those long months filled with both anticipation and anxiety. I hear there's a ceremony to cut the warp threads from the loom after completion. Just imagining the emotions at that moment makes my heart race.

At the International Tapestry Center in the town center, you can see precious tapestries preserved since ancient times, alongside contemporary works, and learn how pieces are created. They run various projects to train young artisans, raise Aubusson's profile through tapestry, and attract tourists. One such project is the collaboration with Studio Ghibli, “Aubusson: Weaving the Imaginary World of Hayao Miyazaki.” Tapestries depicting scenes from Spirited Away were exhibited at the 2005 Aichi Expo, while a scene from Princess Mononoke was displayed in the French Pavilion at the Kansai-Osaka Expo. You might encounter them again somewhere in the future, so keep an eye out.

Lately, whenever I learn about the “savoir-faire” of different countries, I find myself renewed in my appreciation for the wonderful “savoir-faire” of my own country that I often take for granted. I feel this sense of comfort and wonder while enjoying a bowl of miso soup.

Showroom Information
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/

References
https://www.cite-tapisserie.fr/ja/cite-internationale-de-la-tapisserie-aubusson
https://madamefigaro.jp/lifestyle/230707-tapestry.html
https://www.tokyoartbeat.com/articles/-/aubusson-tapisserie-news-202301