[Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum]
The other day, I visited the Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum, an outdoor museum located in Koganei Park, for the first time since I was in elementary school, and found it to be a treasure trove of famous buildings.
The Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum was established by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government in 1993 as a branch of the Tokyo Metropolitan Edo-Tokyo Museum in Sumida Ward. Its mission is to preserve and exhibit historically significant buildings of cultural value that could no longer be preserved in their original locations by relocating and restoring them, with the aim of passing them on as valuable cultural heritage to future generations. Spanning approximately 7 hectares, the park is divided into three main areas, featuring 30 restored buildings from the Edo period to the mid-Showa era. These structures have also served as locations for various films, dramas, and commercials.
The “East Zone” features restored merchant houses, public bathhouses, and izakaya (Japanese pubs) from the Meiji to Showa eras, evoking the atmosphere of old downtown Tokyo. The public bathhouse “Kodakarayu” and the stationery store “Takei Sanshodo” are also known for having served as models for the Ghibli film “Spirited Away.” The “Center Zone” includes the “Visitor Center (former Kōka-den)” and exhibition rooms, which serve as the entrance and exit to the Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum, as well as historical buildings such as the “Korekiyo Takahashi Residence” and the “Former Jishō-in Mausoleum.” The “West Zone” features a variety of architectural styles, including thatched-roof houses and Western-style buildings. There are many highlights to see, and it takes several hours to half a day to explore everything, but we recommend taking the time to walk around the entire park.
One building you should not miss is the Kunio Maekawa Residence, a Tokyo Metropolitan Government-designated tangible cultural property. Built in 1942 (Showa 17) in Shinagawa Ward as the private residence of architect Kunio Maekawa, a disciple of Le Corbusier, it can still be seen today at the Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum. The simple layout, centered around an open-plan living room with a study and bedroom, reminded me of Alvar Aalto's residence in Finland, perhaps due to their shared connection to wooden modernism. The moment I took off my shoes and stepped inside, I was captivated by the comfort of the space and lingered there for a while. There was a gentle power that made me want to stay there forever.
After walking around and admiring the architecture, take a break at the “Musashino Tea Room Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum Branch” inside the red-roofed Western-style mansion “De Lalande House.” The De Lalande House, expanded by German architect Georg De Lalande, was also home to Kaiun Mishima, known as the inventor of Calpis. The interior, restored to resemble the early Taisho period when the extension was built, features sofa seats, while the terrace seats outside allow you to relax while enjoying the architecture. The special sweet potato parfait and organic coffee are also delicious, and the Calpis Shabian, exclusive to this store, refreshes your throat with its crisp acidity and sweetness.
A facility where you can enjoy such architecture for an admission fee of just 400 yen is rare, even when searching nationwide. Located in a relatively quiet area of Tokyo, it's an unexpected hidden gem. If you visit Tokyo, be sure to stop by.
Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum
https://maps.app.goo.gl/WFzApDZH1JD59Hn46
Musashino Tea Room Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum Branch
https://maps.app.goo.gl/xFr3zCkvcCm7Jtjv8
Ginza Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/ginza.html
References
https://www.tatemonoen.jp/english/
https://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXNZO53468150R00C13A4L01000/
https://www.tatemonoen.jp/event/info/2013/04.php
