[Shirokiya Shikkiten]
On a business trip morning in late February, we saw snow still covering the ground in Aizu-Wakamatsu—our first glimpse in a while of a true Tohoku winter. About a 20-minute walk from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, turning from Omachi Street onto Nanoka-machi Street, a striking Western-style stone building comes into view. Completed in 1914, this three-story structure incorporates Renaissance elements and combines the decorative features of Western architecture with the fire-resistant qualities of a traditional Japanese earthen storehouse. At the time, it stood out in the town’s low skyline and went on to influence later Western-style buildings in the area. Its stone walls are accented with dark red framing, and gentle arches soften its otherwise linear design. Gazing at the building’s façade and its fine details, one can imagine how beautiful and innovative it must have looked to people during the Taisho era.
Shirokiya Shikkiten was founded during the Keian era and has been manufacturing and wholesaling lacquerware at its current location since the Kyoho era, when Shogun Tokugawa Yoshimune implemented the Kyoho Reforms. The store played a significant role in reviving the lacquerware industry in Aizu-Wakamatsu, which was devastated by the Boshin War in 1868. Shirokiya has not only supported local demand but also expanded its reach across Japan, earning numerous awards at international expositions in Europe and the United States.
When we stepped into the store, we were welcomed by an array of Aizu lacquerware, primarily tableware. Among the beautifully decorated pieces, the president personally introduced us to keshifun-maki-e, the main decorative technique used in Aizu lacquerware. It is said that during the mid-Edo period, craftsmen were invited from Kyoto to introduce this technique. Keshifun refers to finely powdered metal foil, with particles only a few micrometers in size, resembling face powder.
The maki-e process begins by tracing a rough sketch onto thin paper, then applying water-based pigment from the reverse side. The paper is pressed onto the vessel and rubbed with a brush to transfer the design. A base pattern is drawn with lacquer mixed with pigment to ensure the gold powder adheres. Once the base is complete, the piece is humidified to partially dry the lacquer, then gold powder is sprinkled and gently rubbed in with cotton. This process is repeated until the lacquer hardens fully. The resulting delicate, shimmering designs subtly shift with the angle of light, creating a soft, glowing appearance and an elegant atmosphere.
Climbing the stairs to the second floor, we discovered a variety of items from stationery to stacked boxes and ceremonial sake bottles (choshi) used for special occasions. The space, including the display cases, is said to be largely unchanged since its original construction. Retro-modern lighting hangs from the ceiling, complementing a decorative plaster centerpiece and harmonizing with the traditional Aizu lacquerware on display. In the back, there is a room once visited by Osamu Tezuka, the legendary manga artist.
Later, we had the rare opportunity to observe a craftsman performing the maki-e technique. Each stroke was executed with astonishing precision, and the focused movements of the artisan’s hands left us in silent awe. Witnessing the process firsthand, we were struck by the amount of time, the careful selection of materials, and the exceptional skill passed down through generations, all dedicated to crafting a single vessel.
To reach Aizu-Wakamatsu, we took the Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama Station and transferred to the Ban-Etsu West Line, arriving at Aizu-Wakamatsu Station in about an hour. At Shirokiya Shikkiten, visitors can experience the refined beauty of handcrafted Aizu lacquerware in a space steeped in history and tradition. We invite you to discover the rich cultural heritage that continues to thrive in Aizu-Wakamatsu.
Shirokiya Shikkiten
https://www.shirokiyashikkiten.com/
Video
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YwflY7G5XHs
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/HhP_3vdDQxc
Shirokiya Shikkiten's Teshiozara
https://www.shokunin.com/en/shirokiya/teshio.html
Shirokiya Shikkiten's Eto Sake Cup
https://www.shokunin.com/en/shirokiya/sakazuki.html
