[Taiwan's Vegetarian Cuisine Culture]
When you walk through the streets of Taiwan, you'll see “素食” (sùshí) signs everywhere. Sùshí refers to Taiwan's vegetarian cuisine, and in fact, about 10% of the Taiwanese population is vegetarian—the second highest percentage in Asia after India's 31%. Recently, a Taiwanese vegetarian restaurant opened in the Horikawa shopping arcade, not far from the Imadegawa Showroom, and I became interested in learning more about Taiwan's vegetarian culture.
Sùshí is a Chinese term that refers to a form of strict vegetarianism and is a part of daily life in Taiwan. Rooted in the teachings of Mahayana Buddhism and Taoism, it excludes not only meat and seafood but also eggs, dairy products, and animal-derived oils. In addition, it avoids ingredients referred to as “three kinds of living beings” (三厭)—birds in the sky, livestock on the ground, and aquatic animals—as well as “five pungent roots” (五葷) such as leeks, garlic, chives, onions, and cayenne, all of which are believed to have stimulating properties. Animal products are also avoided in broth, which is typically made with kelp and shiitake mushrooms instead.
Of course, there are different types of sùshí, ranging from quán sù (全素) or chún sù (純素), which include only pure plant-based ingredients without the five pungent roots, to dàn sù (蛋素), which allows eggs, and dàn nǎi sù (蛋奶素), which includes both eggs and dairy products.
At 香郁素食, a very popular vegetarian restaurant in Taitung, we ordered Taiwanese staples such as oyster omelette (vegetarian version), hot and sour noodles, Fuzhou bao, Cantonese congee, and curry rice. When ordering, we asked, “Is it okay to use egg?” The staff kindly confirmed that it was. While vegetarian food is often thought of as bland or limited to vegetables, Taiwanese vegetarian cuisine is flavorful and satisfying—even for those unfamiliar with plant-based diets. In particular, ingredients such as king oyster mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, and dried tofu (dòu gān) offer textures similar to meat or squid. The umami from the mushrooms adds depth and richness to the dishes.
Many Taiwanese restaurants feature a seasoning corner, where chili oil, soy sauce, and other condiments are freely available, allowing diners to customize flavors to their liking. The hot and sour noodles, with plenty of ingredients, wide rice noodles, and thickened broth, pair perfectly with spiced vinegar. I ordered so much that the staff seemed concerned, but despite eating a large amount, I felt light and energized. It was a great opportunity to load up on vegetables—something I often lack while traveling—and reflect on my physical well-being and nutritional balance.
After returning to Japan, I visited 素食カフェRen in the Horikawa shopping arcade. The owner, who came to Japan from Taiwan at the age of 22, opened the restaurant after a serious illness inspired him to promote healthy Taiwanese cuisine. The menu is entirely plant-based, avoiding meat, seafood, eggs, dairy products, and the five pungent roots. Dishes such as fried rice, minced “meat” rice bowl, grilled dumplings, and fried tofu with soy meat soaked up the natural flavors of the ingredients. The number of international visitors also reflected the growing global interest in Taiwanese food.
The Taiwanese cuisine I encountered on this trip left a strong impression. I hope to incorporate it more into my everyday life by recreating the dishes I tasted and referring to recipes found online. If you come across a sùshí restaurant on your next trip to Taiwan, I highly recommend giving it a try.
香郁素食
https://maps.app.goo.gl/s1KBQrcyFbZ4LT3S7
素食カフェRen
https://cafe-ren-horikawa.therestaurant.jp/
Imadegawa Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/imadegawa.html
References
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%8F%B0%E6%B9%BE%E7%B4%A0%E9%A3%9F
https://www.foodlabel.org.tw/FdaFrontEndApp/Law/Edit?SystemId=c68b55b2-21c2-469c-9a5b-f18e2d3cfc75&clPublishStatus=1
