[Sutra Copying Experience in Kyoto]

Kyoto has finally started to show its lush greenery. In the short period between the end of the major holidays and the beginning of the rainy season, young leaves are growing in the mountains and the city, and a fresh breeze is blowing through the air. The freshness of early summer blends with the dignified air of Kyoto and makes me fall in love with this ancient city every year. Recently, I had a chance to experience the beauty of the fresh greenery not only through my eyes but also through my ears.

In Kyoto, there are several temples where you can experience sutra copying. Sutra copying refers to the careful transcription of Buddhist scriptures, either word for word or in the form of sutras that convey the Buddha's teachings on life and the path to enlightenment. Before the advent of printing technology, copying scriptures was a way to spread the Dharma and accumulate spiritual merit. Today, the most widely practiced sutra is the Hannya Shingyo (Heart Sutra), believed to have been translated from Sanskrit into Chinese by Xuanzang, a monk of China’s Tang Dynasty. In just 262 characters, the sutra distills the core Buddhist concept that “all things are empty of inherent existence,” teaching liberation from suffering and attachment. Today, the benefits of sutra copying are once again being recognized—it stimulates the brain by enhancing concentration and offers a moment to quietly turn inward.

The other day, we visited Rozan-ji Temple, a Tendai-sect temple located on the east side of Kyoto Gyoen National Garden, to experience sutra copying. It was once the residence of Murasaki Shikibu and is known as the site where she wrote “The Tale of Genji.” The temple was originally built in the southern part of Funaokayama during the Tenkei era by Ryogen (also known as Ganzan Daishi). The temple was later rebuilt by Kakuyu and named Rozan-ji after a Buddhist lecture hall in Lushan, China. At Rozan-ji, which boasts a long history, there is a dedicated room for sutra copying where visitors can borrow tools such as pens and sample sheets after paying a small fee. The activity typically takes about 60 minutes. As a beginner, I chose the tracing method, placing a semi-transparent sheet over the sample and copying it carefully. After taking a deep breath to calm my breathing, I straightened my back, cleared my mind, quietly placed my palms together, and began the sutra copying.

At first, I couldn't even control the brush strokes of tome, hane, and harai—the fundamentals of Japanese calligraphy—and was surprised by the flood of thoughts that kept arising one after another. But eventually, my breathing settled, my thoughts quieted, and my mind became calm and clear. As I wrote, I could hear the wind blowing through the garden, shaking the leaves on the trees. At that moment, as the wind brushed against my cheeks and the rustling of leaves reached my ears—more delicate and dimensional than ever—I realized that my ears and skin were gently opening to the world around me, even though my focus was supposed to be on the tip of my brush. The sound of the leaves seemed to be clothed in light and color, even without looking at them, and I was enveloped in an extraordinary, almost blissful sensation—as if the vibrant greenery was seeping into my body through my ears. It was one of those moments when something small and easily overlooked revealed its vivid presence, sharpened into focus by the clarity of mind that comes from being fully present in the here and now.

The quiet time spent at a temple, writing sutras with a brush and a calm mind, can offer a special way to experience Kyoto that feels more personal and reflective than typical sightseeing. Through our sutra copying experience at Rozan-ji Temple, we were able to step away from the rush of everyday life, reflect inwardly, and connect with Kyoto’s natural beauty more mindfully and sensitively. How about taking a moment to face the words of the sutra and your own heart, and to experience the quiet flow of time and the changing colors of the seasons?

Rozan-ji Temple *Sutra copying is available from 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM
https://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~rozanji/51syakyo.html
Showroom Information
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/

References
https://fudepen.kuretake.co.jp/write/230/
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%86%99%E7%B5%8C
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E8%88%AC%E8%8B%A5%E5%BF%83%E7%B5%8C