[The Temple Where Kiso Yoshinaka and Matsuo Basho Rest: Gichuji Temple]

The other day, as I was passing through the town of Otsu on my way from Kyoto to Shiga via Yamanakagoe and approaching the Tokaido Highway, I stopped by Gichuji Temple. Although I had passed by the temple on occasion, this was the first time I had been allowed to see it. I was drawn to the temple by the coolness of the basho tree I glimpsed in the hot sun.

As the name implies, Gichuji Temple is the grave of Kiso Yoshinaka (1154-1184), who was killed by Minamoto no Yoshitsune here. According to the temple's legend, however, this place became a temple much later after Yoshinaka's burial. One day, a beautiful nun came out of nowhere and built a hermitage by Yoshinaka's grave. The nun performed her services so earnestly morning and evening that the villagers wondered why she was there, but she simply replied, "I am a nameless woman." The nun was actually Tomoe Gozen, a consort of Yoshinaka who had fought alongside him and remained by his side until just before he was killed. Although we do not know for sure, the temple appears in documents from the late Kamakura period under such names as "Mumyoan" and "Tomoedera Temple."

Tomoe Gozen is a beautiful woman with outstanding valor and charm in the Tale of the Heike, and her popularity has long made her the subject of Noh and Kabuki plays. However, there are almost no historical records of Tomoe Gozen, and there is a theory that she never really existed. I had loved Tomoe Gozen since I was a child and was shocked when I heard this. However, when I learned that the legend of Tomoe Gozen remains in this temple, I felt a little relieved, as if I had met someone I had missed, and visited Yoshinaka Mound and the adjacent Tomoe Mound.

There is one more thing worth mentioning at Gichuji Temple. It is the grave of Matsuo Basho (1644-1694), who is considered to be the greatest haiku poet of all time. Basho came to this area in the Edo period (1603-1867), several hundred years after the time of Yoshinaka and Tomoe Gozen. Basho, who was deeply attached to the tragic warlord Yoshinaka, loved this temple, and whenever he visited Omi, he always stayed at Gichuji Temple. Basho died in Settsu (now Osaka), but his disciples brought him here to be buried in accordance with his will that his body should be sent to Yoshinaka's mound. Basho, who never stayed in one place for long and lived a life of travel, chose Gichuji Temple as his final resting place. Today, Gichuji Temple and Lake Biwa are separated by buildings and a thick road, so there is no direct view of the lake from the temple, but according to the temple staff, Lake Biwa was right in front of Gichuji Temple when Basho was visiting. As I listened to the story, I imagined what a beautiful sight it must have been back then, and I could almost picture Basho gazing out at Lake Biwa from the temple grounds.

In the temple's archives, Basho's favorite camellia walking stick and handwritten strips of paper are on display, and Basho's haiku monuments can be found throughout the temple grounds. In the O-do hall at the far end of the temple grounds, there is a ceiling painting by Ito Jakuchu (1716-1800), known for his extremely colorful chicken paintings. We were told that this is a replica of a permanent installation due to the protection of the work, but we were surprised at the number of things to see at Gichuji Temple.

In the pond in the garden, there are turtles that are carefully cared for, and when they see people, they come out of the water and come close to us. On the way home, I left the temple feeling a little sad to say goodbye to the turtles and thinking that I would visit again when the weather was a little cooler.

Gichuji Temple
https://www.keihanhotels-resorts.co.jp/biwakohotel/sightseeing/gichuji/
Showroom Information
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/

References
Guide to Gichuji Temple, a National Historic Site (pamphlet for visitors)
https://ja.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%B7%B4%E5%BE%A1%E5%89%8D
https://ja.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9D%BE%E5%B0%BE%E8%8A%AD%E8%95%89