[Shimotsukare]
Using Kiya's Onioroshi, I decided to try making “shimotsukare,” something I had wanted to make for a long time. Shimotsukare is a traditional local dish eaten mainly in Tochigi Prefecture and the northern Kanto region. It is a dish that combines the wisdom of our ancestors, made by simmering the heads of salted salmon eaten during New Year's and leftover fukubобы from Setsubun with coarsely grated daikon radish and carrots.
There are various theories about its origins, but one theory suggests that it began as an offering to Inari Shrine. Shimotsukare was traditionally made on the day before the first horse day of the lunar calendar (Hatsuuma) and offered to Inari Shrine before being eaten as a ceremonial dish. However, it was once forbidden to make it outside of that period. This is because, during the Hatsuuma period when it was difficult to obtain ingredients, shimotsukare made from leftovers was not considered appropriate as an offering to the gods. Therefore, it is thought that by intentionally offering something unusual that was not normally made, a special meaning was imparted to it.
Of course, in recent years, this custom has been relaxed, and shimotsukare is now enjoyed as a winter home-cooked dish. Shimotsukare was originally a simple dish made only with soybeans and grated daikon radish, but after the mid-Edo period, as sake breweries became more widespread, sake lees became more common and were added to the ingredients. Today, in the central part of Tochigi Prefecture and the lower reaches of the Kinugawa River in Ibaraki Prefecture, the typical ingredients include daikon radish, soybeans, salted salmon heads, sake lees, carrots, and fried tofu. The dish provides a balanced intake of dietary fiber and minerals from daikon radish, protein from soybeans, calcium from salted salmon heads, and sugar from sake kasu, leading to the saying, “Eating Shimo Tsukare from seven households will keep you healthy.”
This time, instead of salted salmon heads, I used baked salmon and boiled soybeans purchased from a supermarket to create a more casual version of shimotsukare. I grated the radish and carrots coarsely using a grater, added water and other ingredients, simmered for a while, and then adjusted the flavor with seasonings once the ingredients were tender. The flavor of the salted salmon, the mellow richness of the sake kasu, and the natural sweetness of the daikon radish and carrot were delicious and went well with white rice. The clay pot with gray spots from Matsuyama Pottery Factory used in this recipe retains heat well throughout, allowing the ingredients to be cooked thoroughly and bringing out their umami. The large size, which can make a generous portion for 2–4 people, is recommended. Please try it at home.
Shimotsukare
Ingredients (serves 2-3):
Salted grilled salmon 1 slice
Boiled soybeans 60g
Fried tofu 1 sheet
Radish approx. 200g
Carrot 1/3 piece
Sake lees 50g
Water 200ml
Japanese-style granulated dashi 1/3 teaspoon
Soy sauce 1 teaspoon
Salt a pinch
Instructions:
1. Peel the daikon radish and carrot with a peeler, then grate them with a grater.
2. Grill the fried tofu until lightly browned, then cut it in half lengthwise and slice it thinly.
3. Remove the bones from the grilled salmon and flake it coarsely.
4. Place the daikon radish, carrot, water, and Japanese-style granulated dashi in a clay pot and heat over medium heat. Once it comes to a boil, skim off the foam, add the grilled salmon, fried tofu, and boiled soybeans, mix, cover, and simmer over low heat for about 7 minutes.
5. Place the sake lees and a small amount of the broth from step 4 in a bowl to soften, then return to the clay pot and mix. Simmer on low heat for about 3 minutes until the liquid has reduced, then add soy sauce and salt to taste.
Kiya's Onioroshi
https://www.shokunin.com/en/kiya/onioroshi.html
Matsuyama Tokojo's Dobai Hanten Donabe L
https://www.shokunin.com/en/matsuyama/donabe.html
Tsujiwa Kanaami's Tetsuki Yakiami
https://www.shokunin.com/en/tsujiwa/tetsuki.html
Seiryugama's Kobachi S
https://www.shokunin.com/en/seiryu/kobachi.html
Shirokiya Shikkiten's Teshiozara
https://www.shokunin.com/en/shirokiya/teshio.html
References
https://www.maff.go.jp/j/keikaku/syokubunka/k_ryouri/search_menu/menu/31_1_tochigi.html
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%81%97%E3%82%82%E3%81%A4%E3%81%8B%E3%82%8C
https://life.ja-group.jp/recipe/detail?id=7887
https://delishkitchen.tv/recipes/236489381307744553 (Reference recipe)
