["Kirizai," a Local Dish of Niigata Prefecture]
We love natto, and when there is only one pack left in the fridge, we sometimes share it, but usually the first one to eat it wins and it is gone soon. Natto served over hot rice is one of the pleasures of that day's dinner, and while sharing is important, we wondered if we could share it in a way that would satisfy both of us.
In the Uonuma region of Niigata Prefecture, there is a local dish called "kirizai." Its history is so old that it appears in documents from the Warring States period, and there are records that warriors used to carry it as food for their troops. Kiri-zai's "kiri" means "cut" and "zai" means "material." In the days when natto was a valuable source of protein, kiri-zai was made by mixing natto with finely chopped vegetables and pickles in order to increase the amount of natto and eat it more efficiently. This dish was born from the wisdom of our ancestors who, in the harsh natural environment of long snowy winters, did not waste leftover pickles or vegetable scraps, but instead combined various ingredients according to each family's preference.
I immediately tried making kirizai with natto (fermented soybeans), pickled takana (Chinese cabbage), daikon radish, carrots, and white sesame seeds that I had in my refrigerator. In a natto bowl, mix natto, sauce, and hot pepper with finely chopped, salted, and drained vegetables, chopped pickles, white sesame seeds, and finally season with a little soy sauce. It is said that kirizai is also eaten as it is, but when poured over rice, the crunchy texture of the vegetables combined with the moderate stickiness of the natto makes for a satisfying combination with white rice, and sharing a pack of natto and taking in the nutritional benefits of vegetables is like killing two birds with one stone.
There are many variations on how to make kirizai, including pounding natto with a knife to make it easier to mix with other ingredients, using takuan instead of daikon, and using summer vegetables such as eggplant, cucumber, and myoga.
The natto bowl from Yamadakato-en, featuring a shape that can be held firmly in one hand for easy mixing, is just the right size for making kirizai for two people using one pack of natto. The grooves on the inside of the natto bowl allow the natto to become fluffy and smooth as it is mixed. It has a generous capacity for adding ingredients and condiments, as in the case of kirizai. Please try making it with your favorite ingredients and seasonal vegetables.
Yamatada Katoen's Natto Bowl
https://www.shokunin.com/en/yamatada/natto.html
Seiryugama's Rice Bowl L
https://www.shokunin.com/en/seiryu/chawan.html
References
https://delishkitchen.tv/recipes/434346363921106000 (recipe)
https://www.maff.go.jp/j/keikaku/syokubunka/k_ryouri/search_menu/menu/kirizai_niigata.html
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%81%8D%E3%82%8A%E3%81%96%E3%81%84
