August 2024

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[Important Cultural Property Nihonbashi Bridge and Bridge Washing]

In road signs, the destination "** km to Tokyo" refers not to the Imperial Palace, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, or Tokyo Tower, but to "Nihonbashi." The Nihonbashi area, which was built in 1603 and grew rapidly as a castle town with the opening of the Edo shogunate, is said to have been one of the largest cities in the world, larger than Paris or London. The famous bridge “Nihonbashi,” the symbol of the area, was the starting point of the Five Routes that connected Edo to the rest of the country. Blessed with good water transportation, it was also a place where a wide variety of goods were gathered and distributed. The current Nihonbashi was built in 1911 using the most advanced technology of the time. The original road marker, which marked the starting point of the bridge, is still buried in the center of the bridge. The marker is located in the center of the roadway surface, directly above the elevated Metropolitan Expressway, and is marked with the words “Road Marker Point” on a decorative pillar.

Designated an Important Cultural Property in 1999, the Nihonbashi Bridge is a masterpiece of decorative bridges, a collaboration of civil engineers, architects, and sculptors. The bridge is recognized for its “design excellence” in its harmonious blend of Japanese, Chinese, and Western decorations with the main body of the bridge. The “Nihonbashi River” under the bridge is a first-class river that flows through the Chiyoda and Chuo wards of Tokyo, fed by the Kanda River, and joins the Sumida River.

In that Nihonbashi, one of the local annual events is the “Nihonbashi Bridge Washing." This event is a bridge cleaning party started in 1971 to beautify the environment of Nihonbashi, and local neighborhood associations, school officials, department stores, and surrounding businesses participate in this event to polish every corner of the bridge. This year again, about 1,800 people gathered to scrub the Nihon-bashi Bridge with deck brushes as water spray trucks passed by, and the nameplates hung on the highway were brushed with water sprayed from fire trucks. The bridge washing, which does not end as an administrative cleanup, but is carried out by the entire community, is a wonderful cultural event that is overflowing with the love of the people involved in the town for the Nihonbashi.

The current landscape of Nihonbashi, overshadowed by an expressway, has been a topic of ongoing debate since 2005, when the Koizumi Cabinet initiated efforts to "restore beautiful scenery to Japan." The construction of the underground route has already started. The viaduct will be removed in 2040, and the blue sky over Nihonbashi will be restored for the first time in 77 years. Nihonbashi is a 20-minute walk from our Ginza Showroom.

Ginza Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/ginza.html

References
https://www.nihonbashi-tokyo.jp/discover/
https://www.city.chuo.lg.jp/a0052/bunkakankou/rekishi/kunibunkazai/030621.html
https://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXZQOCC167W50W2A610C2000000/
https://president.jp/articles/-/23008?page=1
https://ynks.jp/news/1642/

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[The Temple Where Kiso Yoshinaka and Matsuo Basho Rest: Gichuji Temple]

The other day, as I was passing through the town of Otsu on my way from Kyoto to Shiga via Yamanakagoe and approaching the Tokaido Highway, I stopped by Gichuji Temple. Although I had passed by the temple on occasion, this was the first time I had been allowed to see it. I was drawn to the temple by the coolness of the basho tree I glimpsed in the hot sun.

As the name implies, Gichuji Temple is the grave of Kiso Yoshinaka (1154-1184), who was killed by Minamoto no Yoshitsune here. According to the temple's legend, however, this place became a temple much later after Yoshinaka's burial. One day, a beautiful nun came out of nowhere and built a hermitage by Yoshinaka's grave. The nun performed her services so earnestly morning and evening that the villagers wondered why she was there, but she simply replied, "I am a nameless woman." The nun was actually Tomoe Gozen, a consort of Yoshinaka who had fought alongside him and remained by his side until just before he was killed. Although we do not know for sure, the temple appears in documents from the late Kamakura period under such names as "Mumyoan" and "Tomoedera Temple."

Tomoe Gozen is a beautiful woman with outstanding valor and charm in the Tale of the Heike, and her popularity has long made her the subject of Noh and Kabuki plays. However, there are almost no historical records of Tomoe Gozen, and there is a theory that she never really existed. I had loved Tomoe Gozen since I was a child and was shocked when I heard this. However, when I learned that the legend of Tomoe Gozen remains in this temple, I felt a little relieved, as if I had met someone I had missed, and visited Yoshinaka Mound and the adjacent Tomoe Mound.

There is one more thing worth mentioning at Gichuji Temple. It is the grave of Matsuo Basho (1644-1694), who is considered to be the greatest haiku poet of all time. Basho came to this area in the Edo period (1603-1867), several hundred years after the time of Yoshinaka and Tomoe Gozen. Basho, who was deeply attached to the tragic warlord Yoshinaka, loved this temple, and whenever he visited Omi, he always stayed at Gichuji Temple. Basho died in Settsu (now Osaka), but his disciples brought him here to be buried in accordance with his will that his body should be sent to Yoshinaka's mound. Basho, who never stayed in one place for long and lived a life of travel, chose Gichuji Temple as his final resting place. Today, Gichuji Temple and Lake Biwa are separated by buildings and a thick road, so there is no direct view of the lake from the temple, but according to the temple staff, Lake Biwa was right in front of Gichuji Temple when Basho was visiting. As I listened to the story, I imagined what a beautiful sight it must have been back then, and I could almost picture Basho gazing out at Lake Biwa from the temple grounds.

In the temple's archives, Basho's favorite camellia walking stick and handwritten strips of paper are on display, and Basho's haiku monuments can be found throughout the temple grounds. In the O-do hall at the far end of the temple grounds, there is a ceiling painting by Ito Jakuchu (1716-1800), known for his extremely colorful chicken paintings. We were told that this is a replica of a permanent installation due to the protection of the work, but we were surprised at the number of things to see at Gichuji Temple.

In the pond in the garden, there are turtles that are carefully cared for, and when they see people, they come out of the water and come close to us. On the way home, I left the temple feeling a little sad to say goodbye to the turtles and thinking that I would visit again when the weather was a little cooler.

Gichuji Temple
https://www.keihanhotels-resorts.co.jp/biwakohotel/sightseeing/gichuji/
Showroom Information
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/

References
Guide to Gichuji Temple, a National Historic Site (pamphlet for visitors)
https://ja.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%B7%B4%E5%BE%A1%E5%89%8D
https://ja.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%9D%BE%E5%B0%BE%E8%8A%AD%E8%95%89

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[Jo Neesima and Doshisha University]

The other day I visited the graves of Jo Neesima (Joseph Hardy Neesima) , founder of Doshisha University, and his wife Yae. At the southern end of the Philosophical Path, a steep path up the mountain from the road next to the Wakaoji Shrine leads to the Doshisha Cemetery, where Doshisha-related people are laid to rest. 1890, when the devout Christian Jo Neesima ended his life, it is said that a procession of 3000 people carrying the coffin followed the path from the chapel of Doshisha University to the top of the mountain. He was 46 years old. His life was so short compared to the magnitude of the work he left behind that it is astonishing how densely he lived his life.

Jo Neesima (real name: Shimeta) was born in 1843 as the son of a samurai of the Annaka clan in Jyoshu (now Gunma Prefecture). He was an active child, but after a serious head injury at the age of 8 while playing, his attention turned to his studies. At a young age, the lord of the domain took note of his talent and took him under his wing, but in order to attend the Dutch school, he frequently neglected his duties and skipped out of the domain's residence. When he was 17, he joined the naval academy and met Manjiro Nakahama, a.k.a. John Manjiro, who was teaching there. At the same time, he was also a teacher at the Dutch Academy. At the same time, he borrowed a book about the United States from a teacher at the Dutch school, and was shocked by its democratic government, education, and welfare policies. Furthermore, reading a Chinese translation of the Christian Bible strengthened his conviction that he should work for the freedom of the people by obeying God rather than following his parents or clan. At the time, the shogunate was on the verge of collapse, and the contradictions of society were being placed on those living in the lower classes. Christianity was forbidden, and it was a time when even desertion from a clan, let alone going abroad, was a crime. In 1864, at the age of 21, Neesima finally broke the national ban and boarded an American ship from Hakodate harbor. At the time, escape from the country was punishable by death if discovered. It was a life-threatening decision.

With the help of many people and working as a boy on the ship, Neesima arrived in Boston the following year in 1865. Taylor, the captain of the Wild Rover that brought him to Boston, affectionately called him "Joe," which later became "Jo Neesima. When he arrived in the area, he had no contacts there and did not speak the local language. Mr. and Mrs. Hardy, the owners of the Wild Rover, helped him out. The Hardy's, who were introduced to Neesima by the captain of the ship, were so impressed by the "Statement of Reasons for Leaving the Country" that Neesima, who could not speak English well, wrote all night for two days, that they accepted him like family and took care of all his expenses in the United States. With Hardy's help, Neesima studied English in high school, enrolled at Amherst College, and received his degree in 1870, becoming the first Japanese to graduate from an American university.

Meanwhile, Japan was undergoing major changes: the 265-year Tokugawa Shogunate had fallen, and the Meiji government was established in 1868. 1871, while studying theology at Andover Theological Seminary in Massachusetts, Neesima was visited by Yurei Mori, the Japanese Minister to the United States. He hoped that Neesima, with his knowledge of languages and American education, would serve as a guide for the Iwakura mission. Neesima, who had been a stowaway who was prepared to die, was finally given official status as a "foreign student." Later, he assisted the Iwakura Mission and accompanied them on a tour of Europe. Although he was asked by government officials to return to Japan to cooperate in the establishment of the Japanese educational system, Neesima declined the request because he did not want to be constrained by the authorities. In 1874, just before returning to Japan, Neesima shared his dream of establishing a Christian university in Japan to an audience of about 1,000 people at the American Board's annual conference held at Grace Church, and appealed for donations. Doctors, former governors, and others were moved by Neesima's passionate desire to establish a Christian university in Japan, and one after another, donations of as much as 5,000 dollars were collected. At that moment, the elderly farmer quietly offered the two dollars he had—his entire money for the return train fare. This story is still cherished and passed down today.

Thus, Neesima returned home. Ten years had passed since his departure from Japan. Neesima went to Osaka, where missionaries had already been sent from the U.S., and wanted to open a school there. However, he gave up the idea because the governor of Osaka at the time did not allow the establishment of a Christian school. The next time they approached the governor of Kyoto Prefecture, they received a positive response. Despite various obstacles due to religious reasons, Doshisha Ei Gakko was able to open Doshisha English School in 1875 after receiving the land of the former residence of the Satsuma clan from his brother-in-law, Kakuma Yamamoto, who was a collaborator and benefactor of the school. The present Imadegawa campus is sandwiched between Shokokuji Temple to the north and the Imperial Palace to the south. It was a small start with eight students and two teachers, including Neesima. Neesima continued to work hard to establish women's schools, hospitals, and educational institutions in rural areas, but he died before seeing Doshisha Ei Gakko become a "university," but he never lost sight of his ambition, and the school has grown into a university of over 30,000 students today. However, before his death, Neesima said, "It takes 200 years to complete a university," and according to his words, the university is not yet complete. Doshisha will celebrate its 150th anniversary in 2025. What kind of future did Neesima see in his vision?

In closing, I would like to note the words of Neesima's tearful appeal to his students, "Gentlemen, each of you is important." In retracing the footsteps of Neesima, it is clear that rather than being a person who accomplished great deeds through some special ability, Neesima Jo was a person who, through his sincere attitude toward each person in front of him, realized equal dialogue that transcended nationality, status, gender, and religion, and paved the way through all kinds of difficult situations. I feel that he is a person who has opened up all kinds of difficult situations. There are still many more fascinating words and episodes to be found in the life of Jo Neesima. If you are interested, please check them out. Also, the Imadegawa Campus, located a 15-minute walk from our Imadegawa Showroom, is a beautiful campus with many cultural asset buildings, so we hope you will visit there.

Doshisha University lmadegawa Campus
https://maps.app.goo.gl/j4hmbYF3nzWy2XTL7
Imadegawa Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/imadegawa.html

References
https://www.doshisha-ikkan.info/digitalbook/Joe_Neesima_jp/html5m.html#page=1
http://www.doshisha.ed.jp/history/Neesima.html
https://ja.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/新島襄