October 2022

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["Sakana," "Tsumami," and "Ate"]

The words "sake no sakana," "sake no tsumami," and "sake no ate" are frequently used in izakaya (Japanese style pubs) and restaurants, as well as in daily evening meals. Although these words are usually used to mean the same kind of "food that goes well with sake," they are strictly speaking slightly different and have three different etymologies.

The oldest name that can be confirmed in literature is "sakana (side dishes)." The Hitachinokuni Fudoki, a geographical record of Hitachinokuni (present-day Ibaraki Prefecture) compiled in the early Nara period (710-794), describes the lifestyle of people in the early 8th century and their perception of the time. In the first place, in Japan, side dishes (greens) eaten while drinking sake were called "sakana." Later, the kanji character "肴," meaning "dishes to be served with sake," was introduced from China, and "sakana" came to be expressed with the character "肴." In other words, all dishes served with sake are "side dishes." Until around the Muromachi period (1333-1573), the word "sakana" did not seem to specifically refer to seafood, but since many of the dishes served as side dishes contained fish meat, it is said that fish, which was called "uwo (fish)" in ancient times, came to be called "sakana" around the Edo period (1603-1868), when the word "side dish" was changed to "fish".

"Tsumami" was a type of "snack" that could be picked and eaten with one's hands, and was distinguished from others by the kanji character for "摘," or dried salt and shellfish, fruits, and nuts, which were called "tsumamimono." Through the Nara period (710-794) and into the Heian period (794-1185), the term "tsumami" became common, with the polite word "o" added. Today, simple foods that can be picked up by hand, such as edamame (green soybeans) and surume (dried squid), are called "tsumami" or "otsumami." Also, so-called finger foods, small dishes that can be picked up with the fingers, such as canapés in France and pintxos with skewers or toothpicks in Spain, may be classified as "tsumami" in Japanese.

Then, "ate" is a Kansai dialect centering on the Kinki region. It is not clear when and how the word "ate" originated, but in the "Osaka Shikka Fudoki" written in 1814 as a guide to the city of Osaka, it is mentioned that snacks were called "ate". The word "ate" comes from "a dish to be served with sake." Of course, it is to be eaten with sake, but it often refers to light dishes such as small bowls of food, small dishes, and delicacies that are served as appetizers.

As you can see, although times and places have changed, we Japanese have long enjoyed sake and the dishes that go with it. The reason why there are various ways of saying "sakana," "tsumami," and "ate" is that food that goes well with sake is important. And I think it is because people in the Nara period thought that the opportunity to gather with others and drink sake, or the time to quietly enjoy sake alone, was essential to life itself. Delicious sake, delicious food, and favorite drinking vessels and utensils that complement both will surely add color to the moments in your life.

Shirokiya Shikkiten's Teshiozara
https://www.shokunin.com/en/shirokiya/teshio.html
Fresco's Kasumi Plate S
https://www.shokunin.com/en/fresco/kasumiplate.html
Hirota Glass's Ultimate Sake Glass
https://www.shokunin.com/en/hirota/nihonshu.html
Nousaku's Sake Cup
https://www.shokunin.com/en/nousaku/shuki.html

Reference
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E8%82%B4

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[Japanese Book Cover Culture]

Book covers are said to be a uniquely Japanese culture, which started when used bookstores covered their books with paper, and has spread with the times and needs, probably due to the unique national character of the Japanese people. I think there are many reasons for this, such as to keep books clean and not to let people know what we are reading.

There are a variety of materials: original bookstore paper ones, leather, cloth, etc. If you choose and purchase your own book cover, the key point may be whether you want to spend time with that book cover in terms of feel, design, comfort, and so on.

I often fold my favorite illustrator's paper goods like origami and use them as book covers, and it is truly amazing how just holding a book with that cover on it makes me feel reassured.

Here's how to make a paper book cover:
1. Place the book on the back side of the book cover, in the middle of the paper.
2. Fold the top and bottom edges inward to fit the size of the book.
3. Fold both sides inward to fit the size of the book, and insert the cover of the book into the folded gap.

At the Wakamatsu Showroom, we exhibit and sell Siwa's book covers made of "Naoron," an environmentally friendly, non-fragile paper. Please stop by this weekend while strolling along the scenic Wakamatsu South Coastal Road, which we call the "Naples of Japan."

Siwa's Book Cover
https://www.shokunin.com/en/siwa/bookcover.html
Siwa's Book Cover Silkscreen
https://www.shokunin.com/en/siwa/yunoki.html
Wakamatsu Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/wakamatsu.html
"Tsutomenai Toiu Ikikata" by Ken Mori (about our store operator, written on p.146-164)
https://amzn.to/3rRDPQ1

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[Burčák, Sturm, Federweißer]

In Europe during my autumn travels, I repeatedly drank grape sparkling wine that had just begun fermentation because it was so delicious. I first encountered it in Prague, Czech Republic, when a friend who lived there told me, "This is the only time of year you can drink this." It contains a lot of yeast and is good for the body. The grape juice is sold in a state of advanced fermentation, and the alcohol content, which was initially around 4%, increases to around 11% when all the fermentation is completed. It is a sparkling wine made from grapes just before they become wine, but it has a natural carbonation and sweetness that makes it very easy to drink, and I quickly became a fan.

It is called "Burčák" in Czech, "Sturm" in Austria, and "Federweißer" in Germany, and is sold from late September to around November, which coincides with the grape harvest season. It is a European specialty that can only be enjoyed during the fall.

Since fermentation is going on all the time inside the bottle, there is a risk of bursting if the bottle is completely sealed, and of course, it cannot be brought back to Japan. I have good memories of giving up on it in tears while writhing with envy at the 1.5-liter plastic bottles of sturm at an Austrian convenience store.

In fact, you can drink this special wine in the middle of fermentation in Kyoto as well. At Amanohashidate Winery, it was sold at the tasting counter as a wine that can only be tasted at the brewery. Federweißer is the white wine, but this is the red wine "Federroter." This young wine, which means "red feather" in German, is said to change its initially mild acidity and sweetness after a few days at room temperature, and quickly turns dry.

Sori Yanagi's wine glasses feature a generously thick bottom, making them both easy to hold and stable. Hand-blown and molded by artisans, each glass is carefully crafted one by one. When you find your favorite wine, why not change the mood once in a while and pour it into a unique glass with impact and enjoy it? These glasses create such a soft flow that when you wrap them around your hand, you can't help but want to pull them closer. The glass reflects the texture of the drink and even the pattern of the table, allowing you to enjoy the interplay between the glass and the space.

Sori Yanagi's Wine Glass
https://www.shokunin.com/en/hirota/wine.html

References
https://young-germany.jp/2020/09/federweisser/
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%83%95%E3%82%A7%E3%83%BC%E3%83%80%E3%83%BC%E3%83%B4%E3%82%A1%E3%82%A4%E3%82%B5%E3%83%BC
http://www.amanohashidate.org/wein/