[The Former Nippon Yusen Kaisha Otaru Branch]

I recently visited the Former Nippon Yusen Kaisha Otaru Branch, which reopened to the public following the completion of extensive, long-term preservation and repair work. Standing before the building, I was instantly captivated by the stone exterior spreading out before me; it felt as if I had been enveloped by the atmosphere of the Meiji era, and a mysterious sense of wonder filled my heart.

Completed in 1906 (Meiji 39), this building serves as a symbolic existence constructed alongside the development of the shipping industry as Japan advanced as a modern nation. The design was undertaken by Shichijiro Satachi, one of the first graduates of the Imperial College of Engineering and a pioneer of Meiji-era architecture alongside Kingo Tatsuno. The building features a design incorporating the revivalist styles of early modern Europe, with the portico at the main entrance exuding a particularly majestic air. The outer walls are constructed with robust stone, and the entire structure conveys the high level of technical skill and aesthetic sensibility of the time.

Upon entering, the business office on the first floor makes generous use of amber-glowing wood, with the delicate craftsmanship of artisans felt in every detail of the pillars and beams. There is also a "manhole"—a small entrance for inspection—often seen in other bank buildings remaining in the city, which made me realize the commonalities with the architectural styles of that period. When I went up to the second floor, I was captivated by the beauty of the "Kinkarakami" (gilded leather paper) used as wallpaper in the VIP and conference rooms. This is a uniquely Japanese decorative paper, characterized by its luxurious design created through gold leaf and embossing. It is made by applying metal foil, such as tin, to washi paper, then stamping it into wooden blocks to raise three-dimensional patterns before hand-coloring. The texture, which changes its expression depending on the light, possesses a dignity truly befitting a reception space, allowing me to fully enjoy the spatial beauty where architecture and decoration are one.

Additionally, I remember gazing out from the windows of the second-floor corridor and seeing the scenery look slightly distorted. This is because the hand-blown glass of the time was cut open into cylinders and used as sheet glass, leaving subtle air bubbles and irregularities on the surface. What surprised me even further is that this building was not merely a commercial facility but also played an important historical role. In November 1906, the "Sakhalin Border Demarcation Conference" was held here. This was a diplomatic meeting to determine the border of Southern Sakhalin based on the Treaty of Portsmouth following the Russo-Japanese War, and delegations from Japan and Russia conducted negotiations in the second-floor conference room. It is said that celebratory drinks were even exchanged in the adjacent VIP room, indicating that this place was truly a stage for international politics.

I was deeply moved that a building with such a historical background has been carefully protected even after the war, and that it still retains its original appearance following large-scale restorations in the 1980s and again from 2020 to 2025. With careful seismic reinforcement and repairs to the exterior and interior, the faithful reproduction of its original post-construction appearance further made me realize its high value as a cultural property.

Currently owned by Otaru City and open to the public as part of the Otaru City Museum, visitors can feel the breath of the era when Otaru was called the "Heart of Hokkaido," as well as the architectural techniques and aesthetic sensibilities of the Meiji era. It was a very precious experience to be able to feel the history of Otaru, which once flourished as a hub of logistics and diplomacy, through this building.

The Former Nippon Yusen Kaisha Otaru Branch is a place where history, architecture, culture, and diplomacy intersect. More than just a tourist destination, I sincerely hope that many more people will visit this "living museum" to deeply understand Japan's modern history.

The Former Nippon Yusen Kaisha Otaru Branch
https://kyu-nippon-yusen-otaru.jp/
Otaru Showroom
https://www.shokunin.com/en/showroom/otaru.html